The Spell of Montmartre (and what to do there)
Montmartre and the basilica of Sacré-Cœur is one of the most visited attractions in Paris, and yet it still holds a charm that tourists are just unable to take away. The Sacré-Cœur, in fact, is situated at the highest point of the city and is the second most visited tourist attraction. Although I had been to this area many times, the day I diligently took pictures of Montmartre was one of the hottest days of April and people were just swarming everywhere. And still – it was just as beautiful as I had known it to be in the past months.
How to get there
Okay, now the first time that I had gone there, I was that person who knew very little about how to get around Paris, and researched nothing in advance thinking that Google Maps would, as always, save the day. Do not just google Montmartre. If you’re not used to walking up a large set of stairs, don’t rely on Maps. It will take you to any random metro station around the area (it’s a big place, Montmartre is not just the Artist’s Corner!) and ask you to climb. And climb. And climb.
Road next to the funicular of Sacré-Cœur
Instead, take a connection to Metro 2 from wherever you are in the direction of the stop Anvers. When you get out of Anvers, you’re going to walk up a lane with some souvenir shops and one of those classic Lindt stores, and then take a left to get to the funicular. The cable car will take you up the incline, and since it’s considered as public transport, your Navigo or transport pass should work on it.
The Sacré-Cœur
The funicular will take you up to Sacré-Cœur, and give you a beautiful view of Paris. Stop looking for the Eiffel tower from here, you won’t find it – but you’ll spot the Notre-Dame, the Louvre, the cathedral of Saint Eustache, and other important landmarks.
While the view is great, and the basilica, from the outside, is quite breath-taking, to be honest, the inside is…disappointing. In case you’re in Paris for only a couple of days and have to choose between which churches to get into – I’d suggest not standing in line for this one, and to go to the Notre-Dame instead. (This is, of course, after they reopen the cathedral to the public. Sadly, the Notre-Dame is closed due to the fire of 15th April 2019, and is estimated to be closed for another five to six years. Let’s hope it’s sooner than that).
The Artist’s Corner
Again, do not google “Artist’s Corner.” Google doesn’t know where it is. What you can do, though, is search where the Starbucks is close to the church, and it will take you right to this lovely area. That’s right. Starbucks to the rescue, again. Alternatively, search for “Place du Tertre.” That’s what the area is actually called.
The day I took the following pictures was a day when I had seen this area its most crowded. And yet, even though it is perfectly tailored to tourists – with its shops and cafes and art prints people are just waiting to get their hands on – I still stood for ten to fifteen minutes for most of these pictures to get the perfect shot, because how can you not.
The entirety of the Artist’s Corner was hard to walk around because the space is small and the centuries old cafes are situated close together, with tourists elbowing each other and screaming children. But even with that, there isn’t a place in the world which can replicate the spell that Montmartre holds.
What to eat
While you can visit the famous Consulat and enjoy a pizza at one of the most famous Italian restaurants in Paris called Gigi, you’ve to remember that I was on an intern’s salary and I couldn’t really spend a lot of time indulging. In case you’re looking for a cheap bite to eat while you’re around Montmartre, I recommend two places.
Aux Clairon des Chasseurs
I’m not sure why this restaurant has only two and half stars on TripAdvisor, because if you’re looking for French classics on the cheaper side, this is a great place to be. Although the croque monsieur left something to be desired (it’s bread, ham and cheese, how amazing can it be?) the omelette and the quiche were quite great.
Babalou
Still craving pizza? You can get one at Babalou, near the Sacré-Cœur, which is an authentic Italian and homey restaurant. It is a cute and cozy place, and their pizza is absolutely delicious. If you’re looking to save a couple of euros and still have a tasty meal, you can try their half-pizza and half salad combination for €11.
Walking in and around Montmartre
Once you’re outside of the touristic radius and take the streets adjoining the famous La Maison Rose, you’ll soon find yourself walking more or less alone, through these beautiful streets that you couldn’t imagine existed. This is what I love about the area – the side lanes away from the restaurants and cafes are just as gorgeous as the ones which do have them.
A walk around Montmartre will be like none other than you can take anywhere else in Paris. It’s a walk that will stay with you for a while, and each time that you’re back, you’ll be able to take a different road or even the same roads will feel different to you, but just as lovely. Whether it’s the ever-changing weather that does it or just the fact that there has been, somewhere, a metaphorical live heart placed in the middle of Montmartre that makes it alive and romantic, I will never know.
In any season, both crowded or otherwise, Montmartre has something for all of us. It’s an area where the famous artists all made their careers and adventures happen in the city of Paris, and somewhere, somehow, there is a glimmer of that left.
If you’re visiting this place during the tourist season and would like to know how to appear more like a local in Paris, you can find some advice on my blog here. To see more photos of Montmartre that I have uploaded to Instagram, you can follow me here.
